Earth is the only major body in the solar system on which there are active volcanoes. When you're ready to print, just click this button: Calcareous algae The content and activities in this topic will work towards building an understanding wave patterns in water and how water wave action affects and is affected by nearshore and coastal features. As the bay is surrounded by land, one can come across calmer waters than the oceans. Warm currents flowing ____ on the ____ sides of continents produce warm, humid conditions. Surface ocean currents are driven primarily by ___ and modified by ____. 5.7. The distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave. Based on the graph, which of the following has the lowest temperature? A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least ________. speed of a deepwater wave is proportional to _________. -The wave pattern produced when a new wave is created. All of the following statements are true of ocean sediments except: Ocean sediments are thickest in pelagic waters overlying the oceanic ridges. b.at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean. Air trapped inside the barrel of the wave may explode or spit out of the barrel as the wave races along. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity e. they enhance the natural flow of sand along a beach. e.Tides are not impacted by the eccentricity of Earths orbit about the Sun. The ________ force pulls an orbiting body toward the center of that orbit. Surging breakers (Fig. ocean Make Print-Friendly. molecule has a positive and negative charge. If wave steepness ever exceeds a 1:7 ratio, then the wave breaks. d.wave reflection. Over time, erosion can cause cliff collapse therefore the coastline needs to be managed. a. vast number of dinosaur fossil bones. An area that experiences diurnal tides will have ________. (B) Wave diffraction and reflection in Koieie Loko Ia fishpond. The height of a wave depends upon: fetch, wind, duration, and wind speed. 52. In terms of tidal theory (and the above figure; part A), constructive tidal properties cause: In terms of tidal theory (and the above figure; part B), destructive tidal properties cause: An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have: d.two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. Landforms and beach slope can also affect waves, currents, and the movement of water. due to evaporation along the equator, the water in these currents has much, higher salinity than coastal waters or surface water in the center of the. Your email address will not be published. A sign warns beach goers at Hanauma Bay, Oahu, Hawaii of the potentially strong longshore currents that flow parallel to shore. Why does the damming of rivers sometime contribute to coastal erosion? -the lower limit of wave-induced motion in the water The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the: Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called: The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to: Tsunami travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, The distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, What is the wave period? a. The El Nio Southern Oscillation can best be described as ____. What landforms are formed inland by erosion? (A) Coastline of Kihei, HawaiI, showing reflection, refraction, and diffraction of waves. . University of Hawaii, . the relationship between sea surface temperature and changing atmospheric pressure. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? -the highest part of the wave People like to surf both types of waves. 5.4 B) form when the bottom slopes gradually. Because the focal spot results from the interference of these two waves, the time-reversed field can always be expressed (for a monochromatic wave) as the imaginary part of the Green's function (22). 14. The low parts of the waves are called ____. Fig. 5.2. 5.9. The time between two successive waves is called the: A standing wave can be caused by wave reflection. Coastal processes of erosion include hydraulic action, attrition, corrosion and solution. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. Ions from atmospheric and volcanic gases. Any shoreline construction causes change in the beach environment. Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. Longshore currents flow roughly parallel to the beach (Fig. Fig. Select only one answer. Waves are required in order to have surf. The maximum tidal currents are reported ________. This phenomenon concentrates wave energy on headlands and diffuses wave energy in bays. Waves come into shore and break parallel to the coast because ocean floor topography is generally similar to the shape of the beach. Waves converge on headlands due to: a.constructive interference. calcareous ooze (CaCO3, plankton shells) winds blowing across the ocean surface (wrong answers: density differences between water layers , Earth's rotation , landslides , seismic events ) ; An internal wave might form _____. A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker. A number of stages are involved: All rocks have lines of weakness; the sea and its waves use hydraulic action, abrasion and solution to erode along any lines of weakness. In general, if the bottom is very sloped, the resulting wave will be spilling. -Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs Energy travels as right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles in ____. 21) Waves converge on headlands due to: A) constructive interference. -The depth of the wave base is three-quarters of the wavelength of the waves. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave amplitude Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. b.are wider than summer beaches due to low energy waves during the winter. The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is the wavelength. Spilling breakers (Fig. Is respiration endothermic or endothermic? What can cause a car to vibrate at high speed? -The depth of the wave base is two-thirds the wavelength of the waves. -the bending of waves due to a change in wavelength, -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity. As waves move from deep to shallow water, the wavelength decreases (L1 > L2). Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. c.increased wave action. destructive interference. -The waves are moving faster just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. A) sea, surf . 55. Waves do not break as often in the gap where the rip current forms because the gap is deeper than the surrounding areas. Waves at the ocean surface are ____ waves. 5.10. (SiO2), Plankton that build a shell of calcium carbonate? -the upper limit of wave-induced motion in the water MS-PS4-2 Develop and use a model to describe that waves are reflected, absorbed, or transmitted through various materials. Compared to Antarctic Bottom Water, North Atlantic Deep Water is ____. Plunging breakers (Fig. Ooids, shallow water near shoe, warm water, gentle waves. b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest temperature? Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). 22) Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation?A) sea, surf, swell B) sea, swell, surf C) surf, swell, sea D) surf, sea, swellE) swell, sea, surf Hard engineering. A. constructive interference B. wave refraction C. wave diffraction D. destructive interference E. wave reflection Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? surface currents form circular patterns in the major ocean basins called "gyres.". When I do it myself I get all the answers correct but I don't haveenough time to, . are formed when electrons are shared by atoms. 5.9 A). -Wave period is the inverse of wavelength. Which is technically the most correct with respect to tides? Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. -Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. 54. The spinning rings that break away from the Gulf Stream and move. Deep water currents move ___ volumes of water and are much ____ than surface currents. Where water is warm. An estuary is a semi-enclosed coastal body of water where, Figure 8A-1 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-1.png The Coriolis Effect deflects a fluid to the ______ in the Northern Hemisphere. Plunging waves form tubes or barrels that cascade water in a circular motion downward into the trough and break with a forceful crash, rapidly releasing energy. Waves are the result of disturbance of the water surface; waves themselves represent a restoring force to calm the surface. What type of sediment is the most abundant by volume? The uplift of downdropping of large areas of the sea floor creates ____ waves. Beaches, headlands, and spits were all made by WAVES which are caused by wind. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges. wave, generated by a closed TRM, which con-verges to its source, is always followed by a spatially diverging wave due to energy flux conservation. 17. The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to, The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to, The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a, the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ____. During winter months, monsoon winds over the Indian ocean ___. Landforms and beach slope can be affected by waves. Over 100 people die each year in the U.S. in rip currents and they account for over 80% of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards. However, local weather does determine the conditions of waves that are produced by far-away storms. Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. For reflected waves, the angle of incidence, the angle at which the wave approaches the surface, equals the angle of reflection. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave, What is the trough of a wave? Anatomy of a rip current, showing how currents parallel to shore intersect with the rip current heading out to sea. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? . Standing waves may be caused by _____. The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. A shallow-water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? . How long does gammon steaks take in the oven? For example, if a wave approaches a seawall at a 45 degree angle of incidence, the wave direction propagates away from the wall at a 45 degree angle of reflection (Fig. B) destructive interference.C) wave diffraction. carbonate particles, sea urchin spines, coral, mollusk shells, halimeda/ calcareous algae. A. increases and its wavelength remains the same, B. decreases and its wavelength increases, C. increases and its wavelength decreases, D. increases and its frequency decreases, E. decreases and its steepness decreases. Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. Converging surface waters are areas of _____ and _____ productivity. the inverse of wave frequency Waves converge on headlands due to: a. constructive interference. 5.8. What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? a. Fig. Tsunami waves and tidal bores are examples of surging breakers. The circular motion of water molecules. All Rights Reserved, Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences, Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help, View All Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences Subjects. Waves usually arrive nearly parallel to the shore because ____________________________. Coastal features are constantly changing; the same beach can look different over the span of a season or even a day. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation? A wave with an amplitude that is the SUM of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. An eddy is a circular, whirlpool-like, movement of water (Fig. d. are important feeding/resting points for migrating birds. Waves are a type of erosion. Fig. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. The gravitational attraction among the Earth, Moon, and Sun. -the lowest part of the wave Multiple Choice Waves converge on headlands due to: A)constructive interference. -the highest part of the wave The surf zone is the area near the coastline where waves break (Fig. Composed of chemical properties such as calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Waves are usually smaller, but choppier, in the area of a rip current. There are surf breaks all over the Pacific ocean basin. Common beach features are shown in Fig. Refraction and diffraction affect the amount of wave energy reaching a coastline. 5.21). A. plunging breaker The height of a wave depends upon ________. Investigate the influence of waves along a coastline. Geostrophic circulation within a gyre is driven by ____. How do I get rid of mosquitoes in my room fast? Tsunami can be generated by geological activity that causes a sudden change in sea floor elevation, such as submarine fault motion, A. internal wave Fossilized remains of ancient marine life. All of the following are lithogenous sediments except: Sediments that are very poorly sorted were most likely deposited by: Sediment that begins as rocks on continents or islands id called: Emerging shorelines might have all of the following characteristics expect: Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called: All of the following are typically characteristic of erosional shores except: Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by: Coastal erosion, local biological activity, and rivers, Rock Fragments Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest density? The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the ____. What physical factors affect the magnitude of a gravitational force? Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. Waves converge on headlands due to: Definition. The speed of a shallow water wave is proportional to: The time between two successive waves is called the: The speed of a deep water wave is proportional to: As a wave directly approaches the shoreline, it eventually breaks because it: b. is influenced by the Coriolis Effect. -a gently sloping rocky bottom -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs Is Harlech Castle part of National Trust? -When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. Destructive interference c. Wave diffraction d. Wave reflection e. Wave refraction. The consistency of surf is dependent on the consistency of global weather patterns. At the beach, a rip current usually begins where longshore currents collide and then flow together out to sea. 28. Combinations of each type of wave often occur in a surf zone. The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to ________. Well known surf spots tend to have consistent waves, favorable weather, beneficial geographic orientation, and tidal fluctuations conducive to their geography. As waves approach shallow water, they are refracted, changing the direction of the wave front, and their wavelength decreases. two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. 23. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. -Water moves in a circle in the direction opposite to wave movement. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called: The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to: "Whitecaps" form when _____________________. The center of an open ocean tidal system is called a/an ________. Considering that Earth is closest to the Sun during the northern hemispheres winter, which statement must be true? B)destructive interference. a. What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed interference? Wave steepness increases. 44.The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the. Why are headlands more susceptible to erosion than bays? -the highest part of the wave c.contain more sediment than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. -Wave refraction at the headland decreases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. -The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. On irregular coasts. Water waves exhibit the same behaviors as other waves, including electromagnetic and sound waves, when they encounter a boundary, such as an object. 52. C. surf The vertical difference between consecutive high and low tides is called the ________. Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave "life"? -the bending of waves due to a change in wave phase A closer look at the Hawaiian fishpond, Koieie Loko Ia, shows diffraction, as the water moves through small openings in the pond, and reflection, as the waves bounce off of the retaining wall (Fig. The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________. -Waves with longer periods have shorter wavelengths. the distance over which wind blows without interruption. In a reflected wave, the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection for wave direction. -Shipwrecker waves Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. Wave diffraction through an opening in a barrier. There are three types of breaking waves: plunging breakers, spilling breakers, and surging breakers. Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells. The altering rate of erosion of hard and soft rock is known as differential erosion. Image courtesy of National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). 5.19. (B) A sign at Haena Beach Park, Kauai, HawaiI, warns swimmers that rip currents can sweep swimmers out to sea. Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. -When waves with short wavelengths interfere. If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? In addition, for many the ocean is a source of inspiration, recreation, rejuvenation, and discovery. -Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. -When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. 5.8). Why do people generally install a groin along their beach-front property? The center of mass of the Earth-Moon system is called the ____. Along irregular shorelines, waves also refract, but tend to converge on headlands, causing erosion of sediments . The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: How does water move as waves pass? Will you still be able to buy Godiva chocolate? A rip current can also form when water from an incoming high tide or from large waves flows over a bar or reef; the water then flows in a rip current back to sea through a gap or deep area in the bar or reef. 59) Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? A wave may break more than once, and in different ways, as it advances to shore. a. as evaporation increases, inflow decreases. You might want to use a calculator for this. How are wave period and wavelength related? Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. Buried sediment on the continental shelf. What is rotational slumping A level geography? What is the difference between a restaurant and a brasserie? A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least _____. Water waves travel faster in deep water than in shallow water. tsunamis in deep water have small wave height and long wavelength. A coastal geostrophic current is influenced by all of the following except: Coastal wetlands are important because they: b. are important nursery grounds for fish and other organisms. This wave formed on a river by a flood current is called a/an ________. d.high nutrient levels associated with tidally mixed ocean water. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave steepness? -the highest part of the wave Surf usually contains a mixture of several types of breaking waves. Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. Where in an atom are neutrons, protons, and electrons located? the waves are in extremely shallow water; in fact, it controls the wave speed if the depth of the bottom is less than about one twentieth of the wave length, so as the waves approach shore, they increase in height, they slow down, and they get closer together, and eventually the wave becomes unstable as the orbits interfered with at In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is: The celerity (speed) of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 9 meters, relative to that of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 1 meter, will be ______________. Manganese nodules are these types of sediment: 4,500 meters (below that depth calcareous shells). What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength? -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave Anoxic events (low dissolved oxygen levels) in Chesapeake Bay are mainly caused by: b.high nutrient levels associated with human activities. -The energy of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. Spilling waves can offer long distance rides for surfers as the wave breaks toward shore. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave -the highest part of the wave Wave speed is equal to: . These differences in energy can affect the shape of the coastline. west into the coastal waters ___________. -A wave with an amplitude that is the difference between the amplitudes of the initial two waves. B) destructive interference. What are the four categories of sediment? C. gravity wave b. they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion. In general, the speed, frequency, period, and energy of a wave are not affected by reflection. 5.3). d. Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during winter. That energy is evenly spaced out in the deep water, but because of refraction, the energy of the waves is being focused on the headlands. -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. Fig. e. to change the direction of the tides. Western boundary currents are much more easily observed by satellite. Exploring Our Fluid Earth, a product of the Curriculum Research & Development Group (CRDG), College of Education. a. is a function of the wind direction. Would hydrogen chloride be a gas at room temperature? Study with Quizlet and memorize flashcards containing terms like Waves converge on headlands due to:, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:, The speed of a shallow- water wave is proportional to: and more.
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